Descripción de la carga mecánica soportada por los dedos en distintos agarres de escalada deportiva en expertos

• Autores: Jesús Morenas Martín, Rafael Sabido Solana , Marta Leyton Román
• Localización: Kronos: revista universitaria de la actividad física y el deporte, ISSN 1579-5225, Vol. 9, Nº. 18, 2010, págs. 87-93
• Idioma: español
• Títulos paralelos:
  • Description of the mechanical stress on the fingers depending on the type of hold in expert climbing
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• Dialnet Métricas: 1 Cita
• Resumen
  • español

    En la escalada deportiva, el entrenamiento de los músculos flexores de los dedos es un factor determinante para el rendimiento. Pero aún hoy, no se ha investigado apenas la intervención de cada dedo individualmente en diferentes posiciones de agarre en escalada. El objetivo de este estudio es estudiar las diferentes cargas que soportan los dedos en tres agarres típicos usados en escalada deportiva, y si éstas varían entre escaladores de distinto nivel. En este estudio, contamos con 34 escaladores expertos en dos grupos diferenciados para conocer si existen diferencias significativas entre ellos. Con la utilización de este protocolo, hemos visto una diferencia significativa (p<0.05) en la distribución de la carga en los tres tipos de agarre analizados. Concluimos que la distribución de la carga en los dedos varía para cada tipo de agarre. Vemos también que escaladores de un mayor nivel distribuyen la carga entre los dedos de manera diferente a los escaladores de menor nivel.

  • English

    In sport climbing, training the flexor muscles in the fingers is a crucial determinant for performance. At present, the effect of each individual digit in different grip positions has not been fully investigated. The aim of our research, therefore, is to study how different loads supporting the fingers are affected in three typical grip positions used in sports climbing, and if exists differences between high and low level climbers. In the present study, we divided 34 expert climbers into two groups and investigated whether a significant difference existed between. Using this protocol, we have shown a significant (P < 0.05) difference exists in load distribution in the three kinds of grip analysed. Moreover, we observe that each individual finger contributes in a different way in each type of grip. We conclude that the distribution of the mechanical load in fingers differs according to grip position. We see that climbers at higher level differentially distribute mechanical load between the fingers compared with subjects at lower level.

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